E-Cigarette Battery Safety: The UK Vaper's Guide

Vape batteries are lithium-ion cells that pack a lot of energy into a small space. They deserve your respect, and a few basic habits go a long way. Most of the battery problems we see at Ecigone come down to the same handful of mistakes repeated over and over. This guide covers everything from overnight charging to battery storage, checking your wraps, and knowing when it's time to swap your cells. It applies to every type of vape, from basic pod kits to box mods with removable 18650 or 21700 batteries. Can You Charge a Vape Overnight? Short answer: don't do it, and here's why. Leaving your vape on charge overnight is one of the most common mistakes we see, and one of the easiest to fix. Most modern vapes have overcharge protection built in. But that circuit is a safety net, not something to rely on every single night. Keeping a lithium-ion battery at 100% for eight hours straight puts unnecessary stress on the cell. Over time, it shortens the battery's lifespan. The bigger concern is unattended charging. If something goes wrong with a cable or the battery itself, you won't be awake to catch it. Charge your vape while you're around and unplug it once the light changes. Set a phone timer if you need a reminder. This goes for all vapes, from basic pod kits to pen-style kits and box mods. None of them should sit on a charger all night. Understanding Vape Battery Types There are two types of vape battery, and the safety rules differ slightly for each. Integrated Battery Removable Battery Found in Pod kits, pen-style kits Box mods, larger pod mods Common sizes Varies (sealed unit) 18650, 21700 Charging USB-C port on the vape External charger (recommended) Maintenance Low - just good charging habits Higher - check wraps, marry pairs Lifespan Life of the vape About 12 months per cell Integrated batteries are sealed inside the vape. You charge the whole unit through a USB-C port and never touch the battery directly. Straightforward, but you still need to follow good charging habits. If you're switching from disposable vapes to a pod kit, this is the type of battery you'll be using. Removable batteries are used in box mods and some larger pod mods. The most common sizes are 18650 (18mm wide, 65mm long) and 21700 (21mm wide, 70mm long). You take these out, charge them separately, and slot them back in. More hands-on, but they last longer overall if you look after them. Your vape manual tells you which battery size and type to use. Always stick to the spec listed in your manual. Wrong batteries can damage your mod or cause safety problems. How to Charge Your Vape Safely Do Don't Use the USB-C cable that came with your vape Use cheap unbranded cables Plug into a standard 5V USB adapter Use your phone's fast charger Charge on a hard, flat surface Charge on beds, sofas, or under pillows Unplug once the indicator shows full Leave it on charge overnight Let your vape cool before charging Plug in straight after heavy use Good charging habits are the single biggest factor in battery safety and lifespan. Here's what to get right every time you plug in. Use the right cable. Stick with the USB-C cable that came with your vape, or a good quality replacement. Cheap cables from market stalls often lack proper safety circuits. Use a standard 5V adapter. Your phone's fast charger might seem handy, but it can push too much power into your vape's charging board. A basic USB adapter is all you need. Charge on a hard surface. Your kitchen counter or a desk works. Not your bed, not your sofa, not tucked under a pillow. Hard surfaces let heat dissipate safely. Don't charge from empty to full every time. Lithium-ion batteries prefer shallow cycles. Plug in at about 30% and take off the charger at around 80% to extend the battery's lifespan. Let your vape cool down first. After heavy use, give it ten minutes before plugging in. Charging a hot battery puts extra stress on the cell. Removable Battery Safety If your vape uses removable 18650 or 21700 batteries, you need to know a few extra things. Use an external charger. Charging removable batteries inside the mod works, but a dedicated external charger is safer and better for the cells. They charge more evenly and put less strain on your mod's USB port. Good chargers from brands like XTAR which start from about £9.99 in our batteries and chargers collection. Keep your batteries married. If your mod takes two batteries, always use the same pair together. Same brand, same model, bought at the same time. Charge them together, use them together, retire them together. Never carry loose batteries in your pocket. This is how most serious battery incidents happen. A loose 18650 touching your keys or loose change can short circuit in seconds. Always carry spare batteries in a plastic case. Check the wraps regularly. The plastic wrap on your battery is an insulator that stops the metal casing from making unwanted contact. If the wrap is torn, nicked, or peeling, stop using that battery straight away. Get it rewrapped or swap it out. How to Spot a Bad Battery [shotcode_multi_image_section_4] Batteries don't last forever, and knowing when to retire one keeps you safe. It also saves you from chasing problems that are actually just worn-out cells. Reduced capacity. If your battery runs flat much quicker than it used to, the cell is degrading and it's time to swap it. Unusual heat. Some warmth during use is normal, but hot to the touch is not. If your battery gets uncomfortably warm during normal vaping, stop using it. Physical damage. Any dent, bulge, or deformation means that the battery goes straight in the bin. Same for any discolouration or leaking. Performance drops. If your vape feels weaker or keeps showing low battery warnings well before it should, the battery is on its way out. As a general rule, removable vape batteries last about a year with regular use. Twelve months of daily charging and discharging takes its toll on any lithium cell. Budget for new cells once a year if you vape daily. Storing Your Vape Batteries Where and how you store your batteries matters more than most people think. Keep them away from heat. Don't leave your vape or spare batteries in direct sunlight, in a hot car, or next to a radiator. Heat degrades lithium cells faster than anything else. Keep them dry. None of your vaping kit is waterproof, no matter what it looks like. If a battery gets wet, let it dry completely and inspect it before use. Our guide to maintaining your vape kit has more on keeping your gear in good shape. Store at half charge. If you're putting batteries away for more than a couple of weeks, aim for about 50% charge. Storing them full or empty for long periods damages the cells. Use battery cases for storage. Loose batteries in a drawer are asking for trouble. Keep every battery in a case when it's not in your vape or on a charger. Sub-Ohm and Coil Safety Sub-ohm vaping pulls more power from your batteries. If you're building your own coils or running low-resistance setups, you need to understand amp limits. Our guide to vaping wattage is worth reading alongside this section. Every battery has a CDR (continuous discharge rating) measured in amps. Your coil resistance and voltage determine how many amps you're pulling. A 0.2 ohm coil at 4.2V draws 21 amps from the battery. If your battery is only rated for 20A, you're over the limit. Always buy batteries from well-known, trusted manufacturers. If the amp rating on a battery looks too good to be true, it probably is. Rewrapped batteries with inflated specs are a real problem in the vaping market. For pre-built coils, stay within the wattage range printed on the coil. Your mod will usually suggest a setting, but it's worth checking the coil itself. Our guide to vape coils covers this in more detail. What to Do in an Emergency Battery incidents are rare, but knowing what to do matters. If your vape starts hissing, smoking, or getting extremely hot without being used: Move it away from anything flammable and get yourself to fresh air straight away. Don't try to grab a venting battery with bare hands. Wait for everything to cool down completely before touching it. Once cool, take it to a vape shop or battery recycling point for safe disposal. If you feel unwell after a battery incident, especially any difficulty breathing, get medical help straight away. How to Dispose of Vape Batteries Dead batteries go to a recycling point, not in your household bin. Lithium cells in general waste can cause fires at recycling centres and landfill sites. Drop-off options in the UK include supermarket battery collection bins, local council recycling centres, and many vape shops. Tape over the terminals before dropping off to prevent short circuits during transport. Related products & ranges Coils & pods Vape mods Sub-ohm coils More vaping guides How to look after your vape kit Vape coils explained Beginners guide to vaping

How to Prime a Vape Coil: Stop Burnt Taste on New Coils

Priming a vape coil takes about 30 seconds of actual work and 10 minutes of waiting. That's it. But skip it and you'll burn the cotton inside the coil the moment you fire it. Once that happens, the coil's finished - you can't fix burnt cotton. We sell thousands of coils a month and "my new coil tastes burnt" is still the most common message on live chat. Nine times out of ten, it's a priming issue. This is how to get it right every time. What Priming Actually Does Every coil has cotton wrapped around a heating element. That cotton needs to be soaked with e-liquid before any heat touches it. Dry cotton at 200°C burns instantly and permanently. Priming just means getting e-liquid into the cotton before you vape. You're saturating the wick so it can handle the heat. Nothing complicated, but you do have to be patient with it. How to Prime a Coil in a Tank This works for any replaceable coil - Vaporesso GTX, GeekVape Boost, VooPoo PnP, Aspire Nautilus, all of them. Look at the new coil. You'll see cotton through small ports on the side - usually two to four white spots. Drip 3-4 drops of e-liquid onto each cotton port. Watch the cotton darken as it absorbs. If there's cotton visible on top, add 2-3 drops there too. Screw or push the coil into your tank. Hand-tight, don't crank it. Fill the tank and leave it sitting for 10 minutes minimum. Start at the lowest wattage your coil supports. Take 5-6 gentle puffs, then bump up by 5W. Work up to your normal wattage over the first 15-20 puffs. That gradual start beds the cotton in. Jump straight to high wattage and even a well-primed coil can scorch. [shotcode_multi_image_section_9] How to Prime a Vape Pod Pods work a bit differently because you can't always get at the cotton directly. Pods with removable coils (like VooPoo Drag pods or GeekVape Sonder pods): Pull the old coil out, push the new one in. If you can see cotton through the side, add a couple of drops. Fill the pod and wait 10 minutes. Fixed coil pods (like Caliburn pods or Vaporesso XROS pods): You can't access the cotton at all. Fill the pod to the line, slot it in, and wait 15 minutes. The cotton has to soak from the inside, which takes longer. With any pod, taking a few gentle draws without pressing the fire button helps pull liquid through. Not essential, but it speeds things up. How Long to Prime Different Coil Types Not all coils prime at the same speed. Thicker e-liquid and denser wicking material both slow things down. Coil Type Minimum Wait Notes Standard wire 10 minutes Quickest to saturate Mesh 15 minutes Bigger surface area, needs longer Ceramic 20 minutes Porous material, slowest to wick If you're using high VG liquid (70/30 or thicker), add five minutes to whatever the table says. Thick liquid wicks slower than 50/50 e-liquid, especially in smaller MTL coils. Why Your New Coil Tastes Burnt If you've just put a fresh coil in and it already tastes off, run through this: Didn't wait long enough. This is the cause almost every time. The outer cotton soaked through but the inner core stayed dry. Binning the coil and starting again with a longer wait is usually the only fix. Wattage too high too soon. Even a fully primed coil can burn if you jump straight to 50W. Start at the bottom of the coil's recommended range and work up. Wrong e-liquid for the coil. High VG in a small pod kit means the cotton can't wick fast enough. The coil dries out mid-puff and burns. Match your liquid to your coil - check our coils guide if you're not sure which way round it goes. Dud coil. Rare, but it happens. If you've primed correctly, waited, started low, and it still tastes burnt from the first puff - try another coil from the pack. Once cotton burns, there's no saving it. The taste doesn't fade. Replace the coil and prime the next one the right way. Making Primed Coils Last Getting the prime right is step one. Keeping the coil going is step two. Keep liquid above the wicking holes. Even one dry puff can scorch cotton that took 15 minutes to saturate. Top up before the tank runs low. Don't chain-vape a brand new coil. Give it a few hours of gentle use before you start hammering it. The cotton's still bedding in. Sweet e-liquids kill coils faster. Dessert and candy flavours contain sweetener that caramelises on the coil. You'll get less life from them than from fruit, menthol, or tobacco flavours. Nothing wrong with vaping them, just expect to change coils more often. Stay in the wattage range. Every coil has a recommended range printed on it. Running at the top of that range constantly shortens coil life. Backing off 5-10W makes a noticeable difference. The Vacuum Trick Once you've got the basics down, this is worth trying. After filling your tank or pod, cover the airflow holes with your fingers and take 3-4 strong draws without pressing the fire button. This creates suction that pulls e-liquid through the cotton faster than gravity alone. It's not a replacement for waiting - you should still give it time. But it helps liquid reach the inner cotton layers that are hardest to saturate. Related products & ranges Shop coils & pods Sub-ohm coils More vaping guides Vape coils explained How long do vape coils last?

Vape Coils Explained: Types, Resistance, and When to Change Yours

A vape coil is the part that heats your e-liquid and turns it into vapour. It sits inside your tank or pod. When it wears out, your flavour drops off, you get a burnt taste, and everything stops working. We get more live chat questions about coils than anything else on the site. Half the time it's someone three days into a new coil wondering why it already tastes burnt. Usually it's a priming issue, sometimes it's the wrong coil for their liquid, occasionally it's a dud. This should help you work out which. What Is a Vape Coil and How Does It Work A vape coil is a small metal element wrapped in cotton, housed in a metal casing that clips or screws into your tank or pod. Press the fire button and electricity flows through the metal, heating it up. The cotton wicks e-liquid onto the hot surface, and that liquid turns to vapour. That's it. Nothing more complicated going on. Where the coil sits depends on your vape. In a refillable pod kit, it usually slots into the base of the pod. Pull the old one out, push a new one in. In sub-ohm tanks, the coil screws into the bottom of the tank section. Some pod kits have the coil integrated into the pod itself. When it's done, you replace the whole pod rather than just the coil - which is why those pods cost a bit more. Most coils today use mesh rather than wire. Mesh is a flat sheet of metal with holes punched through it. Bigger heating surface than a coiled wire, so the liquid vaporises more evenly and the coil tends to last a bit longer before gunking up. Vape Coil Resistance Explained Every coil has a resistance measured in ohms (Ω). You'll see it printed on the side: 0.4Ω, 0.8Ω, 1.2Ω, that sort of thing. The lower the number, the more power gets through, and more power means more heat and more vapour. Low resistance (below 0.8Ω) - these are your sub-ohm coils. They run hot, chuck out clouds, and drink e-liquid. You need a mod with decent wattage to drive them, and you're breathing vapour straight into your lungs (DTL vaping). High VG e-liquids only, 70/30 or above. Medium resistance (0.6Ω to 0.8Ω) - the RDL range. Still a lung hit but through tighter airflow, so it's not as wide open as full DTL. Handles both 50/50 and higher VG liquids. A lot of newer pod kits sit in this range because it's a good balance between flavour and vapour without hammering through liquid. High resistance (above 0.8Ω) - MTL territory. Cooler vape, tighter draw, closest thing to smoking a cigarette. Draw into your mouth first, then inhale. MTL coils work with nic salt e-liquids or 50/50 freebase. The resistance has to match what your vape can handle. A 0.2Ω coil in a small pod kit won't even fire. A 1.2Ω coil in a 100W mod will work but you'll barely get anything out of it. Quick Reference Resistance Style E-Liquid Draw 0.2Ω - 0.5Ω DTL 70/30 VG or higher Straight to lungs 0.6Ω - 0.8Ω RDL 50/50 or higher VG Lungs, tighter airflow 0.8Ω - 1.8Ω MTL 50/50 or nic salts Mouth then lungs When to Change Your Vape Coil This is the biggest single query we see, and the honest answer is: when it tells you. A coil that's going bad has obvious symptoms. Burnt or off taste. If your e-liquid tastes charred or just wrong compared to a fresh coil, that coil is done. No amount of waiting or refilling brings it back. Faded flavour. Not outright burnt, but flat. You're vaping the same juice and it doesn't taste like anything much. That's carbon and gunk on the cotton. Less vapour than usual with a full battery and enough liquid in the tank. The heating surface is clogged. Gurgling, spitting, or leaking that starts out of nowhere. A worn coil doesn't seal or wick the same way. On average, a coil lasts one to two weeks with regular use. Heavy vapers who chain-vape all day might get a week or less. Light vapers who have a few puffs in the evening could stretch to three weeks. Sweet, dessert-flavoured e-liquids shorten coil life because the sweetener (sucralose) caramelises on the coil faster than fruit or menthol flavours. Types of Vape Coil Mesh coils are what you'll find in most coils sold today, whether that's sub-ohm or pod coils. A flat sheet of metal with holes punched through it, pressed against the cotton wick. The large surface area heats e-liquid evenly, and they tend to outlast wire coils because the heat doesn't concentrate on a few small points. Most sub-ohm coils and pod coils we stock are mesh. Wire coils were the standard before mesh came along. Kanthal wire wound into a spiral around cotton. You'll still find them in older tanks and some budget coils. They do the job but mesh has them beat on flavour and lifespan. Ceramic coils are a niche option. Porous ceramic holds the liquid instead of cotton. Very clean flavour, can last ages, but vapour output is lower and they take a while to saturate. Worth trying if you care more about flavour purity than cloud size. The metal itself also varies. Kanthal is the default and runs in wattage mode. Stainless steel works in both wattage and temperature control. Nickel and titanium are TC-only and have mostly fallen out of mainstream use. Matching Coils to E-Liquid Getting this wrong is one of the fastest ways to burn through coils or get a bad vape. E-Liquid Type VG/PG Ratio Coil Resistance What Happens if Wrong Nic salts 50/50 0.8Ω and above Too low = harsh, flooded Freebase 50/50 50/50 0.8Ω and above Too low = spitting, throat hit Shortfills 70/30+ Below 0.6Ω Too high = dry hits, dead coil Put high VG liquid in a pod kit with a 1.2Ω coil and the cotton can't wick fast enough. You'll get dry hits and a dead coil within a day. Go the other way - thin 50/50 in a big sub-ohm coil - and you'll get spitting and a harsh throat hit. If you're not sure what ratio your liquid is, it'll be printed on the bottle. Match it to the table above. How to Prime a New Vape Coil New coil, first thing: let it soak. Skip this and you'll torch the cotton before you've taken a puff. We've got a full walkthrough in our coil priming guide, but here's the short version. If it's a replaceable coil for a tank, drip 2-3 drops of e-liquid directly onto the cotton through the side ports. Screw it in, fill it up, then leave it for 10 minutes. Pods with integrated coils are even simpler. Fill and wait. 10 minutes minimum. The cotton needs to absorb liquid all the way through before you hit the button. Either way, start at low wattage and work up over the first 10-20 puffs. Beds the cotton in and stops you burning it out on day one, which is the number one complaint we get from new vapers. Making Your Coils Last Longer Sweetener is the number one coil killer. Dessert, candy, and drink-flavoured e-liquids gunk up coils fast. Fruit, menthol, and tobacco flavours are much gentler. Don't let your tank run low. When the cotton dries out even briefly, it scorches. That scorch mark stays and the coil never recovers. Take a second between puffs. Chain-vaping doesn't give the cotton time to re-soak. Three or four seconds between draws is enough. Back off the wattage. If your vape has adjustable power, running 5-10W below the coil's max rating extends life without losing flavour. Related products & ranges Shop coils & pods Sub-ohm coils Vaporesso coils More vaping guides How to prime a vape coil How long do vape coils last?

Are ElfBars Safe? ElfBar Safety Guide for UK Vapers

Are They Safe? Short answer: Elf Bar vapes sold through authorised UK retailers and any online vape shop are TPD compliant and registered with the MHRA. They meet UK safety standards for nicotine content, e-liquid volume, and packaging. They're not risk free though. No vaping product is. The NHS says vaping is far less harmful than smoking, and Cancer Research UK confirms e-cigarettes don't contain tobacco or most of the toxic chemicals you'd find in cigarettes. That doesn't mean zero risk. It means lower risk than the alternative for adult smokers looking to switch. Not intended for non-smokers or anyone under 18. Ingredients Four ingredients inside every UK legal Elf Bar. Nothing exotic. Ingredient What It Does Propylene Glycol (PG) Carries flavour, gives throat hit. Food grade. Used in medicines and food. Vegetable Glycerin (VG) Creates the vapour. Food grade. Found in cosmetics and food products. Flavourings Food grade compounds. Different combinations for each Elf Bar flavour. Nicotine Salt 20mg/ml in standard UK pods. Smoother than freebase nicotine at the same strength. TPD rules mean the packaging has to list all ingredients and carry health warnings. No ingredients list on the box? Probably not genuine. Zero nicotine options are also available across some ranges if you've already stepped down. Do Elf Bars Contain Diacetyl? This one comes up a lot. Diacetyl got linked to "popcorn lung" years ago when factory workers inhaled high concentrations in food manufacturing plants. It's been banned from UK e-liquids under TPD rules since then. Elf Bar says their UK products don't contain it. Buy genuine from authorised UK retailers and you're covered by those regulations. Counterfeits? No idea what's in them. Nobody can verify it. Nicotine Content 20mg/ml nic salt e-liquids. That's what you get in standard UK Elf Bar pods, and it's the maximum allowed under TPD law. Nic salt absorbs faster than freebase nicotine so the hit comes quicker with less throat harshness at the same strength. Elf Bar vs Cigarettes: Nicotine Comparison People ask this constantly, but comparing nicotine in an Elf Bar to a cigarette isn't as simple as matching numbers. A cigarette holds roughly 10-12mg of nicotine. You only absorb about 1-2mg of that per cigarette though. Elf Bar pods deliver nicotine through vapour instead of smoke, so the absorption works differently. Factor Cigarette Elf Bar (20mg) Nicotine per unit ~10-12mg per cigarette 20mg/ml in 2ml pod Nicotine absorbed ~1-2mg per cigarette Varies by draw length and frequency Delivery method Combustion (burns tobacco) Vapour (heats e-liquid) Tar Yes No Carbon monoxide Yes No The nicotine level isn't really the point though. It's everything else. Cigarettes burn tobacco and produce tar, carbon monoxide, and thousands of other chemicals in the process. Elf Bars heat liquid. Nothing burns. Elf Bar Nicotine Strength Options 20mg nic salt comes as standard across all Elf Bar refill pods. Some ranges stock 10mg too. If you've stepped down completely, zero nicotine pods are available. Too strong at 20mg? The ELFLIQ nic salt e-liquid range is 5mg, 10mg, and 20mg for refillable kits. Our nic salt strengths guide covers which strength works for different habits. Side Effects Switching from cigarettes to vaping can throw up a few things your body isn't used to. Most of it settles down within a week or two. Coughing and Sore Throat Really common in the first few days. Your throat's adjusting to vapour instead of smoke and the sensation is different. Shorter, gentler draws help a lot. Still coughing after a couple of weeks? Worth a chat with your GP. 20mg nic salt doesn't mess about either. That strength hits the throat firmly. Dropping to 10mg or switching to a lower powered pod kit with refillable pods takes the edge off if it's too much. Feeling Sick or Dizzy That's the nicotine. Happens when you vape more than your body can handle in one go. Chain vaping and long deep draws are the usual culprits. Space your puffs out a bit and drink some water. Worth saying: if you weren't a smoker before and an Elf Bar is making you feel rough, that's nicotine hitting a body that isn't used to it. These products exist as a smoking alternative for adults, not as something to pick up fresh. Allergic Reactions Uncommon but it happens. Some people react to propylene glycol with skin irritation, a rash, or extra throat discomfort. If something feels off after vaping that you don't normally get, stop using it and talk to your GP. Overheating and Safety Issues Your Elf Bar getting slightly warm while you vape? Normal. The battery and replacement coils both generate heat during use. That's just physics. What's not normal is a vape that feels properly hot, won't stop producing vapour on its own, or gets warm sitting in your pocket when you haven't touched it. Issue What's Going On What You Should Do Warm during use Normal. Battery and coil working. Nothing. Carry on. Hot when not in use Battery fault or auto-firing. Stop using it straight away. Don't try charging it. Won't stop firing Auto-fire fault. Coil stays active on its own. Pull the pod out if you can. Don't leave it sitting somewhere flammable. Smoking by itself Internal short or liquid on the contacts. Stop using. Take it to a battery recycling point. Nine times out of ten, overheating traces back to counterfeit products, damaged batteries, or someone leaving their vape baking on a car dashboard in summer. Buy genuine, store at room temperature, and most of this never happens. If your Elf Bar starts firing on its own, don't try opening it or fixing it yourself. Pod out, non-flammable surface, battery recycling point. That's the lot. How to Tell If Your Elf Bar Is Genuine Counterfeits are the real safety problem. Fake Elf Bars don't go through TPD testing, so what's actually inside them is anyone's guess. Wrong nicotine levels, unknown chemicals, dodgy batteries. All possible. Every genuine Elf Bar has a scratch panel on the packaging with an authentication code underneath. Enter that code on Elf Bar's website and it'll tell you straight away if the product is real. Fakes either fail the check or show up as a code that's already been used a hundred times. Red flags to watch for: Health warnings missing or badly printed No TPD compliance info anywhere on the box Price that seems too good to be true Spelling mistakes on the packaging Taste or feel that's noticeably different from the same flavour you've had before Ecigone is an authorised Elf Bar stockist. Authentication codes verified on every product we sell. UK Vaping Regulations and Elf Bar Everything Elf Bar sells in the UK has to pass through the Tobacco Products Directive (TPD). Here's what that actually means in practice: TPD Rule What It Means Max e-liquid volume 2ml per prefilled pod, 10ml per bottle for refills Max nicotine strength 20mg/ml. Nothing stronger is legal in the UK. Health warnings Must be printed on every box MHRA registration Every product registered before it goes on sale Ingredient disclosure Full ingredients list on the packaging Child resistant packaging Required across the board Since June 2025, single use disposable vapes have been banned in the UK. Elf Bar made the switch to rechargeable pod kits with replaceable prefilled pods before the deadline. The Elf Bar 600 Prefilled Pod Kit, Dual 10K, JoinOne15, and Plus 50 are all legal rechargeable alternatives you can buy right now. Our disposable vape ban guide covers the full picture of what changed and why. Safety Tips Check the authentication code on every pack. Takes 30 seconds and rules out counterfeits. Leave 20-30 seconds between draws. Coils overheat when you chain vape. Give it a breather. Room temperature storage. Hot cars, direct sunlight, and damp conditions all damage batteries and e-liquid quality. Standard USB-C cable for charging. Don't leave it plugged in overnight or unattended for hours. Burnt taste, overheating, or auto-firing? Replace it. Don't try to fix a faulty vape. Keep them away from children and pets. Nicotine is toxic if swallowed. All Elf Bar products are for adults only. Battery recycling point when you're done. Household bins aren't the place for lithium batteries. Elf Bar Safety: FAQs Are Elf Bars safe to use daily?Used as intended, a genuine Elf Bar bought from a UK retailer is far less harmful than smoking, though not risk-free. Always buy genuine, avoid fakes, and store the device safely. Related products & ranges Shop Elfliq nic salts by Elf Bar More vaping guides UK vaping laws explained

How Long Do Vape Coils Last? A Vaporesso Coil Lifespan Guide

A vape coil lasts anywhere from a few days to three weeks. The biggest factor isn't how you vape, it's what you put in the tank. Sweet e-liquids, wrong wattage settings, skipping the priming step, and chain vaping without breaks are behind most of the coil complaints we hear about. Fix those four things and your Vaporesso coils and pods will last noticeably longer. If you've come here looking for XROS-specific pod replacements, you'll find both generations on the COREX 3.0 and COREX 2.0 pages, with the matching kits over on the Vaporesso XROS series page. How Long Do Vaporesso Coils and Pods Last? Here's what we typically see from customers and from our own testing, not manufacturer estimates. Coil/Pod Type Light Sweetener E-Liquid Medium Sweetener Heavy Sweetener (Bar Salts) XROS pods (0.8Ω / 1.2Ω) 2 to 2.5 weeks 1 to 1.5 weeks 3 to 5 days GTX mesh coils (0.3Ω / 0.8Ω) 2 to 3 weeks 10 to 14 days 5 to 7 days GTi mesh coils (0.2Ω / 0.4Ω) 2 to 3 weeks 10 to 14 days 5 to 7 days That's based on moderate vaping, roughly 200 to 400 puffs a day. Heavier vapers will burn through coils faster regardless of juice. How Many Puffs Does a Coil Last? It depends. A quick one-second puff puts far less stress on a coil than a long four-second draw, so puff count alone doesn't tell the whole story. That said, most Vaporesso coils handle somewhere between 3,000 and 10,000 puffs. The sweetener in your e-liquid matters more than the number of puffs you take. Vaping Style Estimated Puffs Per Coil Light vaper (under 200 puffs/day) with low-sweetener juice 7,000 to 10,000 Moderate vaper (200 to 400 puffs/day) with bar salts 3,000 to 5,000 Heavy vaper (400+ puffs/day) with sweet juice 1,500 to 3,000 What Kills Vape Coils Early? If your Vaporesso coils are burning out fast, it's almost always one of these four things. 1. Sweet E-Liquid (The Biggest Coil Killer) Sweetener is the number one reason coils die early. Most sweet e-liquids use sucralose, and sucralose doesn't vaporise cleanly. It caramelises on the coil like burnt sugar in a pan, building up a dark crust that chokes the wick and ruins flavour. Bar salts and disposable-style nic salts typically pack in more sweetener than standard UK-made juice. If your XROS pods or GTX coils are only lasting a few days, your juice is probably the culprit. Try switching to something clearer and less sweet. The difference can be dramatic. We've seen coils that lasted four days on bar salts go two weeks on a lower-sweetener nic salt. The darker the juice in the bottle, the more sweetener it usually contains. Our nic salt and bar salt collections cover the full range. 2. Wrong Wattage Every Vaporesso coil has a wattage range printed on it. Go above that range and you'll overheat the cotton. Go below it and the juice doesn't fully vaporise. It just sits there caramelising on the coil. Coil Rated Range Best Lifespan Range GTX 0.8Ω mesh 12 to 20W 16 to 17W GTX 0.3Ω mesh 32 to 45W 36 to 38W GTi 0.2Ω mesh 60 to 75W 65 to 68W GTi 0.4Ω mesh 50 to 60W 52 to 55W Start low and work up until the flavour tastes right to you. The sweet spot for most Vaporesso coils sits at about 60 to 70% of the way through the rated range. Our wattage guide goes into more detail. 3. Poor Priming Skip the priming step and you can burn a brand new coil in three puffs. Once cotton is scorched, there's no saving it. Priming just means giving the wick time to soak up juice before you fire the coil. For XROS pods, fill up and wait at least ten minutes. For GTX and GTi tank coils, put a few drops of e-liquid directly onto the exposed cotton through the intake holes. Then put the tank together, fill it, and give it ten to fifteen minutes. Take your first five to ten puffs at a lower wattage than you'd normally use, then gradually bring it up. Our coil priming guide walks through it step by step. 4. Chain Vaping Puff after puff with no break? The wick can't keep up. Dry patches form on the cotton, those patches burn, and the coil starts dying from the inside out. Around 20 to 30 seconds between puffs is enough to let the wick catch up. It matters even more with thicker high-VG liquids because they move through cotton more slowly than thin 50/50 nic salts. How to Make Your Vape Coils Last Longer All five of these work with any vape, not just Vaporesso. Nail them all and you'll notice the difference within your first week. Pick a lower-sweetener e-liquid. Clearer juices with less sucralose make the single biggest difference to coil life. You won't lose out on flavour either. There are plenty of UK-made nic salts that taste great without hammering your coils. Stay within the recommended wattage. Check what's printed on your coil and aim for the middle to lower end. You'll still get good flavour, but your coil won't be working as hard. Prime every new coil. Ten minutes of patience saves you from binning a brand new coil on day one. It's the easiest habit to build. Don't let the tank run dry. Top up when you're down to about a quarter full. If the wicking ports are exposed to air, you're vaping dry cotton. Take breaks between puffs. Especially on higher-wattage setups like the Vaporesso Luxe or Armour Series. Twenty to thirty seconds between puffs gives the wick time to catch up. Which Vape Coils Last the Longest? Mesh coils outlast round-wire coils every time. The flat mesh strip heats the cotton more evenly, so there's less hot-spotting and less localised burning. Your cotton stays cleaner for longer. Vaporesso's GTX and GTi ranges are all mesh. Out of the lineup, the GTi 0.4Ω tends to go the distance because it runs cooler than the 0.2Ω at moderate wattage. For pod users, the newer XROS COREX 3.0 pods have stepped up from earlier versions with a hive mesh structure that heats more evenly. The 1.2Ω pod usually outlasts the 0.8Ω since it pulls less power per puff. Older COREX 2.0 pods are still around for vapers running earlier-generation kits. GTX vs GTi Coils Choosing between Vaporesso's two coil families? Here's how they stack up. GTX Coils GTi Coils Used in Luxe XR Max, Luxe X Pro, Luxe X2, Armour G, Armour GS iTank, iTank 2, iTank T, Gen Max, Target 200, Armour Max Coil style Single mesh Dual mesh (0.2Ω), single mesh (0.4Ω) Typical lifespan 1 to 3 weeks 1 to 3 weeks Wattage range 12 to 45W (varies by resistance) 50 to 75W (varies by resistance) Best for MTL and restricted DTL vaping DTL and high-wattage vaping Lifespan is roughly the same for both. Where they differ is vaping style. GTX coils suit mouth-to-lung and restricted DTL vapers, while GTi coils suit direct-lung vapers running higher wattage. Our guide to vape coils covers the full range. How Long Does a Vaporesso Vape Last? This is a different question entirely from coil lifespan, but it comes up constantly. The vape itself (battery, body, electronics) should give you one to three years. Batteries degrade first. A integrated battery will start losing capacity after about 12 to 18 months of daily charging. Kits with removable batteries like the Vaporesso Armour series go longer because you just swap in fresh batteries when the old ones fade. Our battery safety guide covers how to look after your battery properly. Signs Your Coil Needs Changing You'll usually know. But if you're not sure, look for these four things. Burnt or off taste. If your vape suddenly tastes harsh, charred, or just wrong compared to a fresh coil, that's your answer. Swap it out. Reduced vapour. Same wattage, same juice, but less cloud than before? The coil is gunked up and can't heat properly anymore. Darker e-liquid. Check the juice in your tank or pod. If it's gone darker than when you filled it, the coil is pushing residue back into the liquid. Gurgling or spitting. A tired coil can warp slightly or lose its seal, letting juice flood in where it shouldn't. That's the gurgling and spitback you're hearing. VG/PG Ratio and Coil Life Thick juice wicks slowly. If it can't keep up with the coil, you get dry hits, and dry hits kill cotton fast. VG/PG Ratio Works Best In Coil Impact 50/50 Most pod kits Wicks easily, good coil life 60/40 Most pod kits, Luxe XR Max Wicks well, slightly thicker 70/30 iTank 2, Gen Max, sub-ohm tanks Standard for DTL, larger wick ports handle it 80/20+ Large sub-ohm tanks only Too thick for pods, causes dry hits Trying to run a 70/30 or thicker juice in a pod kit is asking for trouble. Your pods will burn out in days. Stick to 50/50 vape juice for pod kits. For the latest specs and pricing on XROS replacement pods, see the COREX 3.0 and COREX 2.0 pages. Related products & ranges Shop coils & pods Vaporesso coils More vaping guides All about vape coils How to prime a vape coil

How PG/VG Ratio, Coil Type, and Temperature Affect Vapour and Flavour

Your PG/VG ratio, coil resistance, and wattage all shape how your vape tastes and how much vapour you get. Change one and the other two need to adjust. This guide covers which PG/VG ratio works with each coil resistance, how temperature and wattage affect flavour, and where mesh coils fit in. If you're not sure what PG and VG actually are, our guide to choosing vape juice explains the basics. Best PG/VG Ratio by Coil Resistance The resistance of your coil determines which PG/VG ratio wicks properly and tastes right. Thicker juice (high VG) needs bigger wick ports found in lower resistance coils. Thinner juice (high PG) works in the smaller ports on higher resistance coils. Coil Resistance Best PG/VG Ratio Vaping Style Wattage Range 1.0 ohm and above 50/50 MTL, tight draw 8W to 15W 0.8 ohm 50/50 or 60/40 VG/PG MTL, slightly open 12W to 18W 0.6 ohm 60/40 or 70/30 VG/PG Restricted lung hit 18W to 25W 0.4 ohm 70/30 VG/PG Open lung hit 25W to 40W 0.2 ohm and below 70/30 or 80/20 VG/PG Full sub-ohm 40W to 80W+ A 0.8 ohm coil in a pod kit will wick 50/50 juice without any problems. Put 80/20 VG/PG through that same coil and the wick can't keep up, leaving dry hits and burnt cotton. The opposite problem happens at the other end. Thin 50/50 juice through a 0.2 ohm sub-ohm coil at high wattage floods the coil and causes spitback. Best PG/VG Ratio for Flavour PG is the sharper carrier. A 50/50 e-liquid puts more definition into each note and hits the throat harder. Bump the VG up to 70/30 and the flavour softens, gets a touch of natural sweetness from the VG, and comes with a lot more vapour. What works best depends on what you're vaping: Flavour Type Ratio That Works Why Fruit and menthol 50/50 or 60/40 VG/PG PG sharpens the tartness and cooling Dessert, custard, bakery 70/30 VG/PG VG sweetness fills out the creamy notes Tobacco 50/50 Balanced throat hit and body Candy and sweet 60/40 or 70/30 VG/PG Higher VG stops them tasting artificial For the sharpest flavour from any ratio, keep your coil fresh. Gunked up cotton and burnt sweetener mute everything regardless of the PG/VG split. Our coil guide covers how to spot when yours needs swapping. PG/VG Ratio for Pod Kits Pod kits with coils between 0.6 ohm and 1.2 ohm have small wick ports. Stick with 50/50 or 60/40 VG/PG. Go above 70% VG and the wick can't keep up, so you get dry hits, gurgling, or flavour that tastes flat. Nic salt e-liquids come in 50/50 as standard, so they're a natural fit. For MTL vaping in a pod kit, 50/50 nic salts or 50/50 freebase won't give you any wicking trouble. A few pod kits do take 0.4 ohm or 0.6 ohm coils for a looser draw. 60/40 or even 70/30 VG/PG can work at those resistances, but check the coil's wick port size first. Smaller ports choke on thicker juice even at lower ohms. Wattage and Temperature Settings by PG/VG Ratio Thick juice needs more heat. A 70/30 VG/PG e-liquid at 12W barely vaporises, and the flavour comes through weak and muted. Push the same juice to 30W on the right coil and everything opens up. PG/VG Ratio Suggested Wattage Range Notes 50/50 8W to 18W Stay in the lower half for nic salts 60/40 VG/PG 15W to 25W The mid range where most pod coils sit 70/30 VG/PG 20W to 50W Needs a 0.4 ohm coil or lower 80/20 VG/PG 40W to 80W+ Sub-ohm territory only Start at the low end of your coil's printed wattage range and go up by 2W to 3W per session until the flavour peaks. Going past that point burns the sweetener faster without tasting better. Our wattage guide goes deeper on finding the right output for your coil. Temperature Control vs Wattage Mode Temperature control (TC) caps the coil at a set heat level. Once it hits that temperature, power drops off so the cotton never scorches. Wattage mode doesn't do that. It pushes fixed power the whole time, and if the wick dries out between puffs, you get a burnt hit. TC only works with nickel, titanium, or stainless steel coils though. Most pod kit coils are kanthal, and kanthal won't register in TC mode at all. If your kit supports it and your coils match, start around 200°C to 250°C and adjust from there. Otherwise, wattage mode with the coil and ratio match from the table above does the job. Mesh Coils vs Wire Coils for Flavour A mesh coil is a flat strip of metal that sits across the full width of the wick. Wire coils use a wrapped spiral that only contacts the wick at tighter points. That difference in heated surface area changes how the juice vaporises and what you taste. Factor Mesh Coil Wire Coil Heat distribution Even across the full wick Concentrated at wrap points Flavour Wider flavour profile, more notes come through Can be more intense on single notes Vapour More vapour at the same wattage Less vapour, tighter draw Coil life Tends to last longer Shorter lifespan in most cases Ramp up Heats quickly from cold Slower to reach full temperature Mesh is the better pick for flavour in most kits. The even heating pulls more out of the juice without scorching any one spot. You'll notice it especially with complex flavour profiles where multiple notes need to come through at once. Wire coils are mainly found in MTL tanks now, where a tighter warmer draw suits certain vapers. Related products & ranges Coils & pods Sub-ohm coils Shop all e-liquids More vaping guides Vape coils explained Best e-liquids for the XROS VG vs PG ratios explained

Why Your Vaporesso Pod Is Leaking and How to Fix It

A leaking Vaporesso pod is annoying but it's rarely a fault with the pod itself. Most leaks come down to how you're filling it, what juice you're using, or a seal that needs replacing. The fix is usually quick once you know where the leak's coming from. If you're after the matching replacement pods for an XROS kit, both the COREX 3.0 and COREX 2.0 generations are stocked. This guide covers the most common reasons Vaporesso pods and tanks leak. You'll find specific fixes for the XROS 5 series, the Luxe XR Max 2, and sub-ohm tanks like the iTank T. We'll go through each type of leak, what causes it, and how to stop it happening again. Vaporesso Pod Leaking from the Bottom Leaking from the bottom is the most common complaint we hear about Vaporesso pods. Juice pools underneath the pod and seeps down into the battery connection. You'll usually notice it when you pick your vape up and your fingers are sticky. Or when you pull the pod out and there's liquid sitting in the well. What causes it: The seal between the pod and the base isn't sitting right. This happens when a pod hasn't clicked in fully or when the rubber seal around the base has worn down. Hairline cracks you can't easily see are another common cause. Overfilling is another big one because the excess juice has nowhere to go except down through the airflow channel. How to fix it: Pull the pod out and dry the connection area with a tissue or cotton bud. Get right into the pin contacts where juice likes to collect. Check the bottom of the pod for cracks. Hold it up to a light and look for hairline fractures around the base and the seal edges. Push the pod back in firmly until you hear it click. On the XROS 5 and XROS 5 Mini, the magnetic connection should pull it in snugly with no wobble. If the leak keeps coming back with the same pod, swap it for a fresh one from the COREX 3.0 or COREX 2.0 range. The seals wear out over time, especially if you're pulling the pod in and out a lot to refill. Vaporesso Leaking from the Air Hole Juice coming out of the airflow slots is usually a sign that the coil chamber's flooded. Instead of being vaporised, liquid's sitting in the coil area and getting pushed out through the air holes. This happens when you inhale or when pressure changes inside the pod. What causes it: The three main reasons are overfilling, using e-liquid that's too thin for your pod, and inhaling too hard without firing the coil. Leaving your vape on its side for a long time can also let juice seep into the airflow channel by gravity. How to fix it: Close the airflow slider if your kit has one. On the XROS 5 and Luxe XR Max 2, slide it fully closed. Hold the pod over a tissue and blow gently through the mouthpiece to clear excess liquid from the coil chamber. You should see droplets come out of the air holes. Take a few short puffs without inhaling to burn off any remaining flood. You might get a slight gurgling sound for the first couple of draws, and that's the excess burning away. When refilling, leave a gap at the top of the pod. Filling right to the brim forces juice into the airflow channel as soon as you push the stopper in. Store your vape upright when you're not using it. Lying it flat lets juice migrate towards the air holes over time. Vaporesso Leaking into Your Mouth Getting e-liquid in your mouth when you take a draw feels unpleasant and it's usually a flooding issue. The coil can't vaporise the juice fast enough, so liquid gets pulled up through the mouthpiece instead of vapour. What causes it: Drawing too hard is the most common reason, especially on mouth-to-lung pods like the 0.8 ohm COREX 3.0. Pod kits don't need the same suction as a cigarette. Hard pulls drag more liquid into the coil chamber than it can handle. Using a very thin e-liquid (high PG) in a pod meant for thicker juice causes the same problem. The liquid wicks too fast, floods the coil, and gets pulled up through the mouthpiece. How to fix it: Take slower, gentler draws. With the XROS 5 on auto-draw, a steady two to three second inhale works better than a sharp pull. If you're getting liquid in your mouth consistently, try tightening the airflow. A narrower airflow slows the air speed and reduces the chance of pulling liquid through. Check your e-liquid ratio. For Vaporesso pod kits, 50/50 or 60/40 VG/PG works best. High PG liquids (70% PG or more) are too runny and flood the coil. Our e-liquid guide explains ratios in more detail. Flick the pod gently over a tissue to clear any excess from the mouthpiece. Some condensation builds up naturally and a quick flick sorts it. Why a New Vaporesso Pod Might Leak Brand new pods shouldn't leak, but they sometimes do in the first few fills. This catches people out because they assume a new pod means a faulty pod, when it's usually down to one of two things. Priming too aggressively. If you've dripped liquid directly onto the coil or overfilled while waiting for it to soak, the wicking material gets saturated. The excess has to go somewhere. Fill the pod, leave it standing upright for two to three minutes, and that's enough time for the cotton to absorb the juice without flooding. Not seating the pod properly. New pods can feel stiff before the seal's bedded in. Give it a firm push until you feel the click. If there's any movement or wobble, the seal isn't making full contact and liquid will find its way through the gap. Fixing Leaks on the Vaporesso XROS 5 Series The XROS 5 range uses COREX 3.0 pods with improved seals compared to the older COREX 2.0 versions. Leaking is less common on these pods, but it still happens if the basics aren't right. XROS 5 and XROS 5 Nano: Both have adjustable airflow sliders. Close the airflow before you refill the pod and keep it closed for about thirty seconds after filling. This stops air pressure from forcing juice down through the coil while the wicking catches up. Open it back up once you're ready to vape. XROS 5 Mini: The Mini is draw-activated only with no fire button. If you're getting gurgling or spit-back, the pod's likely flooded. Blow gently through the mouthpiece onto a tissue to clear the coil chamber, then take a few light puffs to burn off the remaining excess. XROS Pro 2: The Pro 2 has a slide-lock on the side that prevents accidental firing. If it's been going off in your pocket without you realising, the coil heats up and creates pressure changes that push liquid out. Make sure the lock's engaged when you're not using it. All XROS models: The fill port plug on XROS pods needs pressing in firmly after filling. If it's sitting proud by even a millimetre, it'll let juice weep out slowly. Press it flat with your thumb until it's flush with the top of the pod. Fixing Leaks on the Vaporesso Luxe XR Max 2 The Luxe XR Max 2 uses a larger pod than the XROS range and it connects to the base via a press-fit rather than magnets. Most leaks on this kit come from two places. The pod-to-base connection. E-liquid residue builds up around the contacts over time and stops the pod from seating flush. Pull the pod out and wipe both the base connection and the bottom of the pod with a dry cloth. Push it back in until it clicks and do this every few refills. The coil is not sitting right. The Luxe XR Max 2 uses press-fit coils inside the pod. If the coil isn't pushed in all the way, juice bypasses the seals and leaks through the base. When you swap a coil, push it firmly until you feel resistance stop. There shouldn't be any give when you wiggle it. There's a comparison between the XR Max and XR Max 2 on the blog if you want a closer look at what's changed. Fixing Leaks on Vaporesso Sub-Ohm Tanks If you're using a sub-ohm setup like the iTank T on the Vaporesso Armour Ultra, the leak points are different from pod kits. Base connection. Make sure the coil's screwed into the base straight and hand-tight. Cross-threading is the most common cause of sub-ohm tank leaks. If the threading feels rough, back out and start again rather than forcing it. O-rings on the coil. Every coil has small rubber o-rings around it that create the seal. Before you screw a new coil in, check the o-rings are sitting in their grooves and haven't slipped or torn. A missing o-ring means a guaranteed leak. Top cap. After filling through the top, make sure the cap's fully closed. On the iTank T, the top slides open to reveal the fill port. If it's not pushed all the way back to the locked position, juice can seep through under the cap. The right e-liquid. Sub-ohm tanks need thicker juice than pod kits. Stick to 70/30 VG/PG or higher. Using 50/50 in a sub-ohm tank is one of the most common causes of flooding. The thinner liquid wicks too fast for the coil to vaporise and leaks through the base. E-Liquid and Leaking: Getting the Right Ratio Using the wrong VG/PG ratio for your kit is one of the easiest mistakes to make and one of the simplest to fix. The wrong thickness floods the coil and causes leaking from the air holes, mouthpiece, or base. Kit Type Best Ratio Why XROS 5 / 5 Mini / 5 Nano 50/50 or 60/40 VG/PG Thinner juice wicks properly in pod coils XROS Pro 2 50/50 or 60/40 VG/PG Same pod platform as XROS 5 Luxe XR Max 2 50/50 or 60/40 VG/PG Pod with similar coil size iTank T / Armour Ultra 70/30 VG/PG or higher Sub-ohm coils need thicker juice If you're using nic salts in a pod kit, most bottles are already mixed at 50/50. That's the right consistency for XROS and Luxe pods without needing to check. The nic salt strengths guide covers which strength to pair with which pod. How to Stop Your Vaporesso Leaking Long-Term Fixing a leak once is straightforward, but preventing it from happening again takes a bit of habit. Fill carefully every time. Angle the bottle nozzle against the inside wall of the fill port and squeeze slowly. Never squeeze liquid down the centre air tube. Leave a two millimetre gap at the top and press the fill port stopper flat after you're done. Wipe the connections regularly. Every time you pull a pod out to refill, take five seconds to dry the contacts with a tissue. Residue builds up and stops the pod seating properly, which leads to slow leaks you won't notice until juice is already in the battery well. Store upright and keep the airflow closed. When your vape's sitting on a desk or in a bag, stand it up and close the airflow. Both reduce the chance of juice migrating into the air channel. Replace pods before they fail. Pods don't last forever. Once flavour drops off or you notice the seal around the base getting soft, swap it out rather than waiting for it to leak. COREX 3.0 pods last longer than the older 2.0 versions, but they still need changing. Most vapers get one to two weeks out of a pod before the seal starts to soften. Both pod generations are listed under the wider Vaporesso XROS range page if you need to top up. Match your e-liquid to your kit. This comes back to the VG/PG table above. If you've been getting repeated leaks and can't find a physical cause, check the bottle. Wrong ratio is the most common thing people overlook. The Vaporesso maintenance guide covers cleaning, storage, and when to replace parts if you want a full walkthrough. When It's Not a Leak You Can Fix Sometimes the pod or tank has a fault from the factory. If you've tried everything above and the same pod still leaks in the same spot every time, it's likely a manufacturing defect. Same goes for a brand new pod that leaks before you've even filled it. Get in touch with us and we'll sort a replacement. For the latest specs and pricing on XROS replacement pods, see the COREX 3.0 and COREX 2.0 pages. Related products & ranges Vaporesso replacement pods Vaporesso coils Shop coils & pods More vaping guides How long do vape coils last? How to prime a vape coil